The reasons why local-organic grains have been so terribly neglected
are fairly straightforward. First, compared to most other foods, grains
are relatively non-perishable, so they're relatively cheap to ship, and
there aren't hardly any issues like with tomatoes or peaches of
sacrificing flavor by harvesting under-ripe to withstand long-distance
transport. Secondly, from a gastronomic perspective, grains are that
essential part of a meal that you normally just take for granted and
don't pay any particular thought to. Pasta dishes are defined by the
sauce (or at most the shape of the pasta, which has nothing to do with
the grain farming); a sandwich by what's inside; rice is just a side
dish or a "bed" for what defines the meal; and oatmeal is just oatmeal.
And if grains don't get attention when they're actually on the plate,
how much less attention do they get when they only made it as far as the
feed trough? From meat to dairy to eggs to farm-raised fish, there
isn't a single farm animal that isn't commonly fed grain, often
exclusively, and even as the great bulk of the calories in the diets of
most pastured livestock and poultry. But if you think about the farms
you depend on for your eggs, do you think all about chickens or do you
think at least as much about the grain fields that fed the chickens?
Grains are hugely important, but whether as feed or food they're easily
overlooked by the consumer. Thirdly, grain farming is especially highly
mechanized. Most acres of grain in America probably aren't stepped on
once by the farmer's feet over the course of the whole year: only tires
and steel and chemicals need to touch the ground, and that means that
large scale, heavily mechanized farmers have bigger cost advantages in
grain farming than in any other major farming category. It takes a huge
scaling down of modern farm equipment to meet the tiny market potential
that currently exists for local-organic grains. And finally, grains
lend themselves especially well to pre-processed convenience foods.
Using local-organic grains requires kitchen time. It's much easier to
slice a local-organic tomato for a tomato sandwich than it is to bake
the bread for a local-organic tomato sandwich. Local-organic grain
options will require consumers to look beyond the easy habits of boxed
pasta, instant rice, frozen pizza, corn flakes, etc.
So why not just be content leaving grains out of the local-organic
food movement? Here are 7 reasons we believe local-organic grains are
at least as important to local-organic food as anything else, reasons
that if understood should provide ample motivation to meet the challenges:
1. ACREAGE AND COMMUNITY IMPACT
Grain crops like field corn (which is corn that is harvested when the
kernels are hard-dry), wheat, barley, rice, etc. account for far more
acreage than fruits and vegetables. We'd guess the difference in our
county and general area is at least 100:1 if not 1000:1. If we want to
support a healthy ecosystem around us, if we want healthy soils, healthy
rivers and aquifers, and if we want to foster the local food economy and
build sustainable farming communities, then we can't leave grain farming
out of the equation; the land impact is just far too significant.
2. HEALTHY CALORIES
Directly and indirectly (by feeding to farm animals), grains account
for most of the calories the average American (besides about any other
country) consumes. If you're concerned about what you're eating and how
it was grown (and what went into growing it), grain farming is hugely
significant to your diet.
3. FIRST STEP TO LOCAL-ORGANIC PORK AND POULTRY
We don't see any realistic path to local-organic pork or poultry
(including eggs) that doesn't begin with local-organic grain for human
consumption. If local farms can find support for local-organic grains
(as cornmeal, grits, corn for hominy/tortillas, whole wheat flour,
buckwheat flour, and whatever other grains can be relatively efficiently
grown organically and processed on a small scale in our region), then
there will be various byproducts (milling byproducts and parts of crops
that for various reasons wind up unfit for human consumption and
sporadic damaged crops that can't be harvested but can be fenced in for
animals to harvest directly) that will go a long way to making
local-organic pork and poultry feasible and economical.
4. FERTILIZER VS. POLLUTION
The present alternative to feeding farm animals local-organic feed is
to raise pork and poultry and other farm animals on grain shipped in
from far away organic farms or more often from farms that aren't organic
at all. That leaves problems on both ends, for both the grain farm and
the livestock operation. The grain farmer is left with a nutrient
deficit from shipping away the nutrients in his grain, and the manure
can become a waste liability or pollutant on the other end. When the
grain farmer replaces the manure with synthetic fertilizers highly
susceptible to run-off and leaching, that can further exacerbate the
pollution liability. The natural solution to the problem is to use
animal manure to fertilize grain crops, but that can only practically
happen when farm animals are being raised on the same farm as the grain
that feeds them (or at least in the same farming community and as part
of the same farming system), and that's realistically only going to
happen as consumers that value local-organic farming begin by supporting
local-organic grain products for human consumption.
5. FIRST STEP TO OTHER FIELD CROPS
The equipment and facilities for growing and processing grains like
field corn, barley, wheat, etc. share a lot in common with other field
crops like oil seeds (seeds that are pressed for salad/cooking oil) and
pulses (dry peas and beans, soybeans, etc.) and seed crops like cover
crop and forage plant seed. Growing and finding markets for true grains
and grain products (like flour, cornmeal, etc.) will likely prove to be
a necessary first step to local-organic farms and communities once again
growing and offering and stewarding these other foods and field crops.
6. CROP ROTATIONS
Diversified farms that grow produce crops together with grain crops
and forage/hay crops and animals are in the best position to practice
the kind of crop rotations that improve soil health, cycle nutrients,
and break pest and disease cycles.
7. NATURAL MULCH
Before produce farms were all covered in plastic, straw was the
natural mulch for crops like straw-berries and many other produce
crops. Straw is a byproduct of grain farming (the leftover stalk of
grains like wheat or barley or oats.) Unlike plastic, which just adds
to landfills, straw naturally decomposes, improving the soil in the
process. If your vision of an organic produce farm isn't one covered in
plastic, that's one more reason to support local-organic grain farming.
No comments:
Post a Comment