For the sake of helping our customers and especially prospective CSA
members understand what our farm is about we want to talk this week
about one very important aspect of our approach to farming, specifically
how we approach all the many foods that the local-organic food movement
has generally decided are better just to outsource or ignore (at least
for the foreseeable future.) As we detailed about a month ago, there are
several huge holes in the local-organic food movement (in terms of what
foods are grown and sold), holes that invariably account for most of the
acreage that even the most dedicated farmers' market consumers have
farmed on their behalf (i.e. most of their agricultural footprints), as
well as most of their calories. We believe too much in the value of
local-organic ways of farming and eating to be content with such a
marginal role for local-organic agriculture. Of course, it's easy to
focus on colorful things like fresh vegetables and ignore background
things like staple dry goods or the feed that makes animal products
(especially if the animals are raised on small local farms, just on feed
purchased from a very different system of agriculture), but we wouldn't
continue to go to the trouble to grow hardly anything ourselves unless
we had some real hope in a broad system of food and farming that's truly
distinct from what's become the modern norm in our part of the world.
Perhaps one might be content with some colorful changes at the margins
for a while if one avoided asking too many questions, but for us as
farmers the questions have been too hard to avoid, and so we're not
content to wait for the economics of local-organic farming to redefine
itself before we make real efforts toward comprehensive changes.
What we're talking about here is efficiency and labor cost. The
biggest holes in the local-organic food movement aren't there because
there aren't local-organic ways to fill the holes (i.e. produce the
food); the biggest holes are there because the local-organic food
movement has been waiting to develop modern efficient methods for
filling the holes, methods that haven't been developed, particularly not
on a scale consistent with local-organic markets. So, for example,
we're talking about whether it makes sense to hand hoe/weed corn (in our
case primarily for cornmeal/grits/hominy/tortillas and secondarily for
animal feed) even when there are herbicides (either selective herbicides
or broad spectrum herbicides in conjunction with herbicide-resistant GMO
corn) that with the right machinery could be sprayed on over a thousand
acres in the time it would take us to hand hoe one acre (even as a
follow-up to tractor cultivating.) Even apart from the direct conflicts
with organic principles, there are often indirect conflicts: machinery
that can yield big gains in efficiency often comes at a huge cost, which
requires a huge scale of production, which creates organic impasses in
other places. For example, one might be able to realize much greater
efficiency with modern harvesting equipment but only on a scale at which
organic methods for weed and pest control and local-organic marketing
were no longer feasible.
So what should we do? Obviously, cost matters, but in more or less
the materially richest nation in the world at the materially richest
time in history, surely for almost all of us our long-term choices
aren't dictated so much by the necessities of survival. So is there
enough value in local-organic food and farming to accept significant
trade-offs in superficial dollar efficiency? Or should we just abandon
ideas of local-organic production for all those foods that can't be
produced according to modern ideas of efficiency? When the only way to
produce a given food local-organically involves lots of old-fashioned
hand labor -- and in the present reality (and foreseeable future) that's
often the only available choice -- we don't immediately infer a reason
to jump the local-organic ship. Obviously, we want to find the most
efficient ways to do things that we can, but our definition of
efficiency isn't the narrow definition of efficiency that rules
commodity markets, so local-organic values are critical to our accounting.
We also don't care so much how local-organic farming costs compare to
conventional costs. In other words, no matter how cheap high fructose
corn syrup gets, we're still going to want to eat honey. If
local-organic honey is too expensive for us we may eat less honey and
more local-organic sorghum syrup or we may have to cut back on
sweeteners altogether, but the cost of corn syrup sweetened supermarket
food doesn't really factor into our accounting at all. This same kind of
thinking about how we want to eat as a family plays a heavy role in
determining what we have to offer to our customers.
What does this mean for the CSA members for whom (after ourselves)
we're primarily growing? For one thing, to put a positive spin on it,
it means our CSA members have access to a lot of foods for which there
aren't hardly any local-organic options (e.g. dry beans/peas, peanuts,
wheat/flour/bread, storage onions, English shelling peas...), or to put
a negative spin on it, it means we're focusing heavily on foods that a
lot of organically inclined farmers' market customers would rather buy
more cheaply at the supermarket (and without having to shell peanuts or
peas themselves, and with more convenient options like ready-to-use
canned beans instead of dry beans, multiple types of ready-made bread
available any day of the week...) From another positive angle, we also
believe that there's value in recovering, developing, and preserving the
locally adapted genetics, the seed stock, and the knowledge that go into
producing all the foods that the local-organic movement has mostly
abandoned. We hope our CSA members will find value in supporting those
efforts.
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